vip in the city

(New) Big Wong (King)

What is the name of this restaurant at 67 Mott? Back in the 1980s when I was being marched to the chinese school across the street, it was known as Big Wong. A couple of years ago, the signage changed without fanfare to New Big Wong (cf. New Chao Chow.) And continuing the name-changing tradition (cf. Great N.Y. Noodletown) it’s now called Big Wong King.

One thing that hasn’t changed with the times: the restaurant’s excellent roasted meats — among the best in Chinatown. Ducks, chickens, and my favorite: the char siu.

(New) Big Wong (King)’s version is deeply smoky and mouth-meltingly tender beneath the slightly crispy and sweet outer glaze — not greasy, sticky or cloyingly sweet as some inferior versions tend to be. The name char siu  literally translates to “fork roasted,” after the technique of suspending the meat on prongs during oven-roasting, which allows the fat and excess marinade to drip off, and the glaze to form evenly all around. Fattier meat is generally juicier and is therefore preferred; customers will actually specially request a fatty cut.

The “on rice” dishes are a terrific lunch bargain, starting at $4.25. Here, the beef with peas, which for some reason, is not on the menu.