vip in the city

Tasty Telepan

Early birthday dinner at – surprise! – Telepan.

I’d been to this restaurant when it first opened last year, and loved its fresh, seasonal ingredient-driven menu by Bill Telepan. (The chef’s Greenmarket approach is furthered in his 2004 book, Inspired by Ingredients.)

Critics have been impressed; so too, the devoted diners who recently named the restaurant “Best Newcomer” in the 2007 Zagat Survey.

We were seated in the pea-green dining room of the converted townhouse, our hearts and stomachs already set upon the restaurant’s much admired four-course tasting menu. SYB opted for the wine pairing as well, and though I was teetotaling tonight, I was glad he splurged; it gave us the opportunity to watch Telepan’s young wine director Aaron von Rock (cool name!) at work. A veteran of Tribeca Grill, Alta and Food & Wine‘s 2001 Best New Wine List winner Bar Demi (which he opened with Verbena chef Diane Forley), von Rock cut quite a character with his foppish facial hair and enthusiastic sommelier banter.

On to the food. The dim lighting proved something of a photography challenge, but trust me, it was all delicious: from the trio of amuse-bouches (almost universally abbreviated to “amuse” among waiters, but thankfully, not ours) to the desserts.

Appetizers: House Smoked Brook Trout with potato-chive blini & sweet onion sour cream…

…and Crispy Blue Prawns with spicy mango, hearts of palm & avocado salad:

Mid Courses (not pictured): Seared Foie Gras Torchon with duck proscuitto, port & sweet onions and Robiola Tortellini with meatballs, swiss chard & parmigiano broth.

Entrées: Dry-Aged Sirloin & Short Ribs with roasted garlic potato cake & creamed spinach custard…

…and Organic Lamb porchetta-style with shell beans, wild spinach & spinach linguini:

Desserts: Carrot Cake Sundae with cream cheese ice cream, carrot salad & candied walnuts…

…and Coconut Rice Pudding with pineapple fritters & basil syrup:

If only every day were my birthday.